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Friday, December 16, 2022

Isfeng: a crispy doughnut from al-Andalus for Hanukkah - BBC

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Fried foods are the norm when celebrating Hanukkah, and the Sephardic "isfenğ" is no exception, packed with as much history as crunch.

Hanukkah, literally "dedication" in Hebrew, commemorates the Maccabean revolt that led to the historical recovery of Jerusalem from the Greek empire and the rededication of the menorah in the Second Temple around 168 BCE. Religious texts later extrapolated on the event in Shabbat 21b of the Talmud, writing of the miracle of the oil that lasted for eight days. Oil and fried foods have ever since been inextricably linked to the holiday.

But there's more to explore in the culinary canon of the Jewish "Festival of Lights" beyond the traditional latkes (grated potatoes mixed with onions, egg and fried into crunchy pancakes) and sufganiyot (doughnuts stuffed with a piping bag full of jelly) that are as essential to celebrating Hanukkah as candles for the hanukkiah – the nine-branch menorah used exclusively for the holiday. This year, take a trip back to 13th Century al-Andalus (modern-day Andalusia, Spain) when Jews – and Muslims – both indulged in isfenğ.

Fried foods are the norm when celebrating Hanukkah and isfenğ is no exception among Sephardim – the Jewish diaspora with roots in Spain prior to the Inquisition. Isfenğ are simplified culinary cousins of sufganiyot. There's no piping bag necessary; just golf ball-sized pieces of dough stretched, formed into a ring and dipped in frying oil for about a minute each side. That's it. Its crispy thin crust gives the doughnut the flavour of fried toast when you bite into it, followed by a hint of sweetness.

Hélène Jawhara Piñer is a Sephardic cookbook author with a PhD in medieval history and the history of food who's been recognised and awarded by a number of organisations, including most recently the Society for Crypto-Judaic Studies, for her engagement with Sephardic history research. She grew up in France surrounded by French family, but with Andalusian roots through her father. Her second book on Sephardic culinary heritage, Jews, Food, and Spain was released in November. Simply put, she is the person chefs, like Zahav's Michael Solomonov, go to when working with Sephardic cuisine.

Hélène Jawhara Piñer is a Sephardic cookbook author with a PhD in medieval history and food history (Credit: Hélène Jawhara Piñer)

Hélène Jawhara Piñer is a Sephardic cookbook author with a PhD in medieval history and food history (Credit: Hélène Jawhara Piñer)

"Isfenǧ is a big fried doughnut with bubbles everywhere," she explained. "It's crispy on the outside and airy on the inside."

Piñer writes in her new book that references to isfenǧ can be found in the 13th-Century Kitāb al-ṭabīẖ, the oldest cookbook of the Iberian Peninsula. But those recipes don't seem to fully resemble today's isfenǧ – for one thing, there was no hole in the centre.

Isfenǧ (with a hole) makes its second appearance in the 13th-Century Spanish-Arabic cookbook, the Fuḍālat al-ẖiwān, with a recipe that can be translated as "Confection of Doughnuts".

"This preparation is made from semolina that is dissolved in hot water with salt and yeast," Piñer writes. "They must be fried and browned on the bottom but remain white on top. They can be cooked twice, so that they are lighter [in texture]."

Dough is formed into a ring and dipped in frying oil for about a minute each side (Credit: Chris Griffiths/Getty Images)

Dough is formed into a ring and dipped in frying oil for about a minute each side (Credit: Chris Griffiths/Getty Images)

Though it originated in Moorish Spain, the isfenǧ travelled along with the diaspora, and now shares its culinary heritage with Northern Africa and the Middle East.

Queen Isabella of Spain expelled Jews and Muslims from al-Andalus in 1492 following the conquest of Granada. Most fled to modern-day Morocco in North Africa and brought their isfenğ with them. Similar variations exist in Libya (sfinz) and Tunisia (bambaloni).

The pastry travelled again following local pogroms and the creation of the State of Israel in 1948. Approximately 274,180 Jews have emigrated from Morocco between 1948 and 2016. Today, there's an estimated population of 472,800 Moroccan Jews in Israel, and a closer look at the etymology of isfenğ tells the story of its journey across the Iberian Peninsula to North Africa and Israel. 

Piñer explains that sfenğ also goes by "esponja" or sponge in Spanish, a word derived from the Arabic "sjenğ" of the same meaning. A similar linguistic root exists in Hebrew. The Hebrew word "sfog" refers to a round doughnut. Ladino, Judeo-Spanish spoken by Spanish Jews or Sephardim, used a mix of the Castilian and Arabic and called it "sponǧa."

Though the Jewish population within Morocco has declined significantly, with some estimates putting it around 3,000, local street vendors continue to sell the pastry. Moroccan Jews in the diaspora and in Israel eat isfenǧ for Hanukkah, just as any Ashkenazi Jew tucks into a plate full of latkes. For Muslims in Morocco, it's a year-round street food.

"Isfenǧ testify to a shared culinary heritage belonging to both Jews and Muslims," said Piñer. "Both in the past and the present day."

References to isfenǧ date back to the 13th Century (Credit: Hemis/Alamy)

References to isfenǧ date back to the 13th Century (Credit: Hemis/Alamy)

Make your own isfenǧ this Hanukkah 

In 2021, Piñer published Sephardi: Cooking the History with recipes from the Jews of Spain and the diaspora dating back to the 13th Century. In it, Piñer includes this recipe for isfenğ, created using a variety of sources, including the aforementioned Kitāb al-ṭabīẖ. Although she didn't grow up with isfenǧ, it's since become part of her Hanukkah tradition. "I make isfenǧ every other day during Hanukkah," she said.

To make your own isfenǧ, Piñer recommends preparing the dough in advance and setting it aside in the fridge overnight. The texture should be sticky and takes a little practice to get used to handling it, making the hole in the centre, and frying it.

For a little added sweetness, Piñer recommends sprinkling them with a bit of sugar and lightly dipping them in honey.

Isfenğ: the Andalusian Doughnut Recipe
By Hélène Jawhara Piñer 

Makes: 8

Time: 20 min + 4 hours (or overnight) + 20 min

Ingredients:

1 tbsp fresh yeast + ⅓ cup (70ml) lukewarm water
3 cups (450g) flour
2 tsp sugar
½ tbsp salt
1⅔ cup (330ml) lukewarm water
neutral oil for frying

Instructions:

  1. In a small bowl, dilute the fresh yeast with lukewarm water.
  2. In a large bowl, or in the bowl of a food processor, add the dissolved yeast, flour, sugar and salt. Mix and gradually add the water. The dough should be sticky.
  3. Knead for 15 minutes and cover the bowl. Rest overnight (or for at least 4 hours).
  4. Then, heat the oil in a frying pan or in a deep fryer over medium-high heat.
  5. Lightly dip your hands into some water and take a portion of the dough (the size of a golf ball).
  6. Make a hole in the middle of the dough and stretch it well. Then, fry the dough for 30 seconds to one minute, turning it over once.
  7. These are usually eaten on their own, but you can sprinkle them with sugar and lightly dip them in honey if you want them to be sweet.

BBC.com's World's Table "smashes the kitchen ceiling" by changing the way the world thinks about food, through the past, present and future.

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Thursday, December 15, 2022

Great British Baking Show Champ Giuseppe Dell'Anno's Chocolate Torte Cake Recipe 'Is Heaven' - PEOPLE

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"This is heaven for chocolate lovers," says Great British Baking Show 2021 winner Giuseppe Dell'Anno of this decadent showstopper from his upcoming cookbook Giuseppe's Italian Bakes.

The cake, also known as a torta tenerina, is a classic Italian dessert. "The story goes that it was invented in the early 1900s to honor the tender heart of Queen Elena, wife of King Victor Emmanuel III," according to Dell'Anno.

The "tender heart" is represented by the crisp outside and gooey inside of the cake. "It's a very rich cake with a thin, lightly crispy exterior and a delicate, almost creamy center," says Dell'Anno.

Giuseppe Dell'Anno. Mark Bourdillon/Netflix

Giuseppe Dell'Anno's Chocolate Torte Cake

7 oz. dark chocolate (70 to 75% cacao) bar, chopped or dark chocolate chips (about 1¼ cups)

½ cup (4 oz.) unsalted butter, diced, plus more for greasing

3 large eggs, at room temperature, yolks and whites separated

⅛ tsp. table salt

⅔ cup superfine sugar

½ cup (about 1⅞ oz.) bleached cake flour, plus more for dusting

3 Tbsp. whole milk

Unsweetened cocoa powder, for dusting

Powdered sugar, for dusting

3 chocolate truffles (optional)

1. Preheat oven to 350°, and set rack in center of the oven. Butter a 9-inch springform pan, and line the bottom with parchment paper.

2. Fill a medium saucepan with water to a depth of 1 to 2 inches; bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a simmer over medium low. Place chocolate and butter in a medium heatproof bowl; place over the saucepan, making sure that bottom of bowl does not touch water. Cook over medium low, stirring occasionally, until chocolate is melted and smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat, and set aside to cool.

3. Beat egg whites and salt with an electric mixer on medium-low speed until foamy, 2 to 3 minutes. Gradually add ⅓ cup of the sugar, and beat on medium speed until stiff, shiny peaks form, 3 to 5 minutes (do not overbeat; meringue should not look dry and clumpy). Set aside. In a large bowl, beat egg yolks and remaining ⅓ cup sugar with an electric mixer on medium speed until pale and fluffy, 4 to 6 minutes.

4. Gradually sift the flour into the yolk mixture while beating on low speed until smooth, about 2 minutes, stopping occasionally to scrape sides of bowl. Pour in chocolate mixture and milk; beat on medium until fully combined and glossy brown, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Use a silicone spatula to gently fold in egg white mixture in 3 additions. Pour into prepared pan, and spread gently to level.

5. Bake in preheated oven until top looks light brown and crisp, 20 to 22 minutes. Remove from oven, and let cool in pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Remove outer springform ring, and transfer cake to a cooling rack to cool completely. Dust top of cake with cocoa powder, then dust two thirds of the top with a generous layer of powdered sugar. Place truffles across the boundary between cocoa and powdered sugar as decoration. Slice and serve.

Serves: 8
Active time: 30 minutes
Total time: 2 hours, 55 minutes

Quick tip! "When mixing whipped egg whites into the batter, do not use a whisk," says Dell'Anno. "A silicone spatula will minimize the amount of air knocked out during the process."

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Wednesday, December 14, 2022

TASTE OF LIFE/ 'Three-treasure dish' featuring pickled Chinese cabbage: Easy and tasty recipe for young men 'open to cooking' to try | The Asahi Shimbun: Breaking News, Japan News and Analysis - 朝日新聞デジタル

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Editor’s note: In the Taste of Life series, cooking experts, chefs and others involved in the field of food introduce their special recipes intertwined with their paths in life.

* * *

In 2018, Joe-san., a cooking expert with more than 380,000 Twitter followers, began posting his recipes in earnest.

Around that time, he had become independent from his employer, a company that created recipes. The initial intention was to promote himself and hopefully gain orders through the tweets.

He spent days posting his recipes. One day in June 2019, he introduced a recipe for “mixed asparagus rice,” a mixture of rice, chopped asparagus, butter and “mentsuyu” (seasoning sauce for noodles). It received nearly 200,000 likes and became his first recipe to go viral. The number of his followers in the thousands began to grow steadily.

Looking back, he thinks that posting recipes diligently prompted people who came to read one of his posts to make the rounds of his other tweets and decide to follow him. A month later, a major publishing company approached him to write a recipe book.

Analysis at that time showed that his main followers were women in their 30s and 40s, but there were many men in their 20s as well. He came up with more udon and ramen noodle recipes targeting young men.

He received direct responses through social media such as, “I tried cooking myself” and “I showed the recipe to my family.”

Gradually, Twitter changed from being a place to promote himself to one where he posted for the users.

“Instead of urging people to try what I think tastes best, I want to be useful and offer ideas that will make cooking easier,” he says.

Joe-san. feels that young men of today belong to “a generation that is open to cooking.” For that reason, he hopes they will “get used to cooking while they are at university or are recent graduates.”

He wants them to think that when they find partners, it is natural to cook in the kitchen together.

“I think my simple recipes can back that up,” he says.

The “three-treasure dish featuring pickled Chinese cabbage,” cooked with three ingredients, was one of his recipes that went viral. The use of fermented food adds depth to the flavor. While the microwave oven was used when he introduced the recipe on Twitter, he uses a frying pan this time.

* * *

Joe-san.: Born in Yokohama in 1988, Joe-san. struck out on his own as a cooking expert after working at a food planning company. He has written books including “Mendo na Koto Shinai Umasa Kiwami Reshipi” (Fuss-free recipes that are the ultimate in umami).

20221215-recipe-2-L
Joe-san. (Photo by Atsuko Shimamura)

BASIC COOKING METHOD

Main Ingredients (Serves two)
2 eryngii mushrooms, 150 grams pork belly (butabara) slices, 200 grams lightly pickled Chinese cabbage (hakusai no asazuke), 2 tsp sesame oil, Seasoning A (1 tsp chicken soup stock, 1 tsp soy sauce, 1 Tbsp sake, 2 tsp sweet mirin sake), 1 Tbsp katakuriko starch, 2 Tbsp water

1. Finely slice eryngii lengthwise. Cut length in half. Cut pickled Chinese cabbage and pork belly slices into bite-size pieces. Mix Seasoning A.

20221215-recipe-3-L
Cut pickled Chinese cabbage into bite-size pieces. (Photo by Atsuko Shimamura)

2. Pour sesame oil in frying pan, add pork belly slices and stir-fry.

3. When meat has changed color, add pickle and eryngii and cook further.

20221215-recipe-4-L
Add eryngii and pickle after meat is cooked. (Photo by Atsuko Shimamura)

4. When ingredients are mixed, add blended Seasoning A and mix while stir-frying.

5. Mix katakuriko starch with water, add to pan and cook evenly.

About 400 kcal and 2.5 grams salt per portion
(Nutrient calculation by the Nutrition Clinic of Kagawa Nutrition University)

Lightly pickled Chinese cabbage can be bought in stores. Although those flavored with yuzu and other ingredients are also sold, choose a simple type without extra savor.

When stir-frying the meat and vegetables, do so on medium heat.

* * *

From The Asahi Shimbun’s Jinsei Reshipi (Life Recipe) column

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Our 20 Most Popular Recipes of 2022 - The New York Times

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Readers loved low-effort, low-cost dishes that don’t skimp on flavor or fun.

Sometimes the chaos of life calls for an all-day cooking project — an artfully arranged ombré gratin, a braided challah or a big pot of Sunday sauce — something to busy your hands and settle your spirit. But most days, what you need is an easy meal: a dish that is simply prepared, if not simple in flavor, and that won’t let you down. This year, as inflation pushed food costs to new highs, the ingredients also couldn’t cost a lot. These are just the kind of recipes New York Times Cooking readers clicked on most in 2022. With the exception of a few special project dishes — we’re looking at you, Thanksgiving! — they are all easy, economical and exciting recipes to live your messy, beautiful life by. (Find our 50 most popular recipes here.)

Sang An for The New York Times. Food Stylist; Simon Andrews.

J. Kenji López-Alt adapted these silky, seven-ingredent noodles from Helene An at Thanh Long restaurant in San Francisco. The recipe calls for 20 smashed garlic cloves, so it’s a recipe and a stress reduction exercise in one.

Sang An for The New York Times. Food Stylist; Simon Andrews.

Readers loved this one-pot dish from Kay Chun for its adaptability and ease — and had plenty to say about it. (They left more than 500 notes on the recipe.) They also used chicken breasts (or even chickpeas or seitan) instead of thighs, basmati rice in place of short-grain, or broccoli instead of bell pepper, and were more than happy with the cozy results.

Recipe: Sticky Coconut Chicken and Rice

Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.

It’s hard to improve upon a classic Thanksgiving dish like stuffing, but Eric Kim did just that by testing 20 different recipes in search of this ideal version. Take it from Alicia: “This is the best Thanksgiving recipe I have ever tried in my life. And I also test drove five recipes myself before trying this one. Bravo!”

Recipe: Thanksgiving Stuffing

Bobbi Lin for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Monica Pierini.

Ali Slagle combined the flavors of chicken souvlaki, Greek salad and tzatziki into one fabulous 30-minute meal. Serve with Ali’s lemon potatoes, and, if you don’t like the mess of pan-frying chicken, roast it on a sheet pan in the oven for about 25 minutes.

Kelly Marshall for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Roscoe Betsill. Prop Stylist: Maeve Sheridan.

Jarred red curry paste, coconut milk, garlic, ginger and tomatoes make up the fragrant base of this comforting vegan soup from Yewande Komolafe. The creamy broth is poured over bowls of silken tofu and topped with fresh herbs for a vibrant, filling meal.

Recipe: Brothy Thai Curry With Silken Tofu and Herbs

Armando Rafael for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Rick A. Martínez smartly combines Tajín, a Mexican seasoning made from dried, ground red chiles, sea salt and dehydrated lime juice, with agave syrup, orange juice and zest, chipotles, adobo and garlic to make a glossy sauce for grilled boneless chicken thighs. If you don’t have a grill, you can roast the chicken in the oven at 400 degrees for about 25 minutes.

Recipe: Tajín Grilled Chicken

Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.

Many a reader wowed their Thanksgiving guests this year with Alexa Weibel’s gorgeous vegetarian ombré gratin, made with layers of butternut squash, sweet potatoes, beets, potatoes and store-bought phyllo pastry sheets.

Recipe: Ombré Gratin

Christopher Simpson for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews. Prop Stylist: Paige Hicks.

Mayo, that pantry stalwart, is the secret ingredient in this turkey recipe from J. Kenji López-Alt. By combining thick mayo with fresh herbs and slathering it all over the turkey, the herbs stay in place, and the egg in the mayo encourages browning, so you get an evenly seasoned and burnished bird without much fuss.

Recipe: Mayo-Roasted Thanksgiving Turkey With Gravy

Kate Sears for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Monica Pierini.

For crunchy tofu, skip the messy frying, and instead, coat tofu cubes with a mix of cornstarch and oil, then roast until crisp-edged and impossible to stop eating. For a complete sheet-pan meal, balsamic-glazed cherry tomatoes, sliced garlic and red onions roast alongside your tofu.

Recipe: Crispy Tofu With Balsamic Tomatoes

Joe Lingeman for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.

This 15-minute salty, sweet and tangy ground chicken and green bean stir-fry was adapted from the “Night + Market” cookbook by Kris Yenbamroong and Garrett Snyder. Feel free to use ground turkey in place of chicken, or sweet basil instead of Thai or holy basil.

Recipe: Pad Krapow Gai (Thai Basil Chicken)

Dane Tashima for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.

Readers sure do love a one-pot chicken dish, and this one from Yasmin Fahr is no exception. Inspired by a dinner of ginger fried rice and garlicky stir-fried greens served at Uncle Lou, a Cantonese restaurant in New York, it’s mild and comforting, interesting and nuanced.

Jenny Huang for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Susie Theodorou; Prop Stylist: Paige Hicks.

“My kids deemed these the best pancakes that they have ever eaten.” What more is there to say about these soft and sweet pancakes from Genevieve Ko?

Recipe: Lemon Ricotta Pancakes

Sang An for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

Frozen dumplings come to the rescue in this superfast soup from Hetty McKinnon. Miso, ginger, garlic and turmeric create a flavorful base to which frozen dumplings, noodles, baby bok choy and broccoli (or another vegetable of your choice) are added for a full meal.

Recipe: Dumpling Noodle Soup

Kate Sears for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Hadas Smirnoff.

Just when you thought fettuccine Alfredo couldn’t get any better, Genevieve Ko went and proved us all wrong by adding chile crisp and spinach for a 30-minute, no-chop dinner that hits all of the spicy, creamy and umami notes.

Recipe: Chile Crisp Fettuccine Alfredo With Spinach

Christopher Simpson for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.

This classic Italian sauce from Ali Slagle is rich with shredded pork shoulder, Italian sausage and meatballs. Simmer it on the stovetop or in the slow cooker, but however you prepare it, definitely serve it over pasta alongside a green salad and a hunk of good bread. It makes a lot, but freezes well, so you can enjoy the fruits of your labor weeks from now.

Recipes: Sunday Sauce | Slow-Cooker Sunday Sauce

Bobbi Lin for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Eugene Jho. Prop Stylist: Christina Lane.

The best of summer produce — corn, tomatoes, basil and cilantro — come together in this extremely simple salad from Genevieve Ko. Some readers got creative by adding avocado, feta, black beans and so on, but it’s also perfect just the way it is.

Recipe: Corn Salad With Tomatoes, Basil and Cilantro

Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food stylist: Sue Li. Prop stylist: Pamela Duncan Silver.

Eric Kim’s lush meal of seared scallops and brussels sprouts glazed in a Dijon-, lime- and maple-based sauce is really something special. Serve it with crusty bread, over white rice or risotto, or both.

Recipe: Seared Scallops With Glazed Brussels Sprouts

Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Monica Pierini.

In Ali Slagle’s version of the classic Neapolitan dish, pasta and lentils cook together in one pot so the pasta releases starches that thicken the sauce. What results is a surprisingly creamy and luxe economical pantry meal. Green lentils are ideal here, but brown will work, too. (They just might fall apart a bit more.)

Johnny Miller for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Rebecca Jurkevich.

This version of pad kee mao was adapted from Hong Thaimee, a chef in New York who grew up in Bangkok. It uses plenty of fresh garlic, basil and chiles, and calls for a Dutch oven instead of a wok. Use whichever protein you like: ground pork or chicken, shrimp, mussels or calamari, or cubed extra-firm tofu.

Recipe: Pad Kee Mao (Drunken Noodles)

Beatriz Da Costa for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Susie Theodorou.

In Kay Chun’s wonderfully adaptable fried rice recipe, cubes of tofu are cooked in a combination of soy sauce, garlic, ginger and sugar, absorbing the flavors like tender little sponges. Use any mix of vegetables you like; cabbage, bell peppers and mushrooms are all excellent choices.

Recipe: Tofu and Broccoli Fried Rice

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Friday, December 9, 2022

Wine's 25 Most Popular Recipes of 2022 - Food & Wine

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It's been a delicious year at Food & Wine, as we've published hundreds of new recipes from decadent desserts to mouth-watering main courses. Each year there are always a handful of standout dishes that really make an impact. As we look back on 2022, we've rounded up our readers' favorite recipes, from an Italian wedding risotto that's both rich and creamy to a smoked brisket that falls right off the bone. Read on to discover the 25 recipes our readers loved most this year.

Italian Wedding Risotto

Photo by Victor Protasio / Food Styling by Torie Cox / Prop Styling by Claire Spollen

Inspired by the classic Italian wedding soup, this hearty risotto is filled with just-wilted spinach and topped with crispy, garlicky meatballs. Use a cookie scoop to quickly portion out the meatballs; make a double batch and freeze half to whip up this risotto in a flash. Remove the risotto from the heat while it's still a little soupy—it will thicken slightly as it rests. 

Reverse Sear Steak

Photo by Jennifer Causey / Food Styling by Ali Ramee / Prop Styling by Christina Daley

Learning ​​how to reverse-sear means you can serve steakhouse quality meals in your own kitchen. The trick to this ingenious cooking method is to first cook the steak in a low oven, then transfer it to a blazing hot skillet to quickly sear both sides. The result is a steak with a deeply browned crust and an inside that is evenly cooked. This method is especially helpful when cooking thick steaks; it allows the meat to cook exactly to your taste without overcooking or even burning the exterior of the steak. Although this steak is delicious straight out of the skillet, we added a buttery wine pan sauce to finish off the dish. The recipe for the herb butter added to the sauce makes more than you will need, and is very handy to have around to dress up a pot of rice or vegetables at the last minute.

Turmeric-Poached Eggs with Chive Biscuits and Lobster Gravy

Photo by Jennifer Causey / Prop Styling by Julia Bayless / Food Styling by Ruth Blackburn

This decadent brunch dish is reminiscent of crawfish étouffée, but with the West Coast vibes found all over the menu at chef Brooke Williamson's beachside restaurant complex, Playa Provisions. Lobster lends the gravy rich flavor, while the turmeric eggs add a sunny pop of color. Make the lobster gravy the day beforehand and reheat it gently to make brunch an easier lift.

Smoked Brisket

Andrew Thomas Lee

This smoked brisket is self-taught barbecue expert Matt Horn's signature recipe — the star of the menu at his restaurant, Horn Barbecue, in Oakland, California. The 2021 Food & Wine Best New Chef spent weeks perfecting this recipe, and says time is the most important ingredient in this dish. You need to be patient while the meat's internal temperature rises to 203°F (95°C), but it's worth it when your smoked masterpiece is ready.

Japanese 7-Eleven Egg Salad Sandwich

Photo by Antonis Achilleos / Food Styling by Ana Kelly / Prop Styling by Lydia Pursell

Jason Diamond's desire for the famous Japanese 7-Eleven egg salad sandwich inspired him to recreate it at home. Kewpie mayonnaise is key to this recipe — made with only egg yolks and rice or apple cider vinegar — along with a fluffy Japanese milk bread and just the right ratio of whites to yolks.

Artisan Pizza Dough

Photo by Christopher Testani / Food Styling by Torie Cox / Prop Styling by Audrey Davis

Despite its reputation as a convenience food, the most essential element of great pizza is time. A slow fermentation gives our pizza dough its chewy-crispy texture and depth of flavor. It starts with your choice of sourdough starter (aka levain) or a simple mixture of flour, water, and active dry yeast (poolish) left to ferment for 12 hours. Both options start fermentation and build flavor in the dough overnight. Strategic stretching of the dough during the initial fermentation stage develops gluten and makes the dough evenly elastic and forgiving to work with. Each 9-ounce dough ball will make one 10-inch pizza, a personal-size pie that's also easy to maneuver around home countertops and ovens. This overnight dough is easily doubled for pizza parties. Not cooking for a crowd? The raw dough may be frozen. 

Adobo Chicken Wings

Photo by Greg DuPree / Food Styling by Margaret Monroe Dickey / Prop Styling by Kay E. Clarke

"This dish is fully inspired by my dad," says chef Anna Swann. "His family's chicken adobo is the first Filipino dish he taught me how to make when I first started getting into cooking." At her pop-up, Ulam, in Dallas, Swann combines the flavors of chicken adobo with another childhood favorite, fried chicken wings. The resulting Adobo Chicken Wings are flavored to the bone thanks to a stint in an umami-rich soy sauce and vinegar marinade. While they bake, the marinade is cooked down to concentrate its flavors — the better for tossing the cooked wings in — adding a final, sticky, finger-licking layer of deliciousness. "This dish was a natural blend of the two dishes, an ode to some of my favorite meals he cooked for us," Swann says. "I also think this dish shows the beauty of Filipino food. How it can take simple ingredients and the end result is a rich complex layering of flavors. So simple, but so good!" Serve the Adobo Chicken Wings as Swann does, with steamed rice and a bright and acidic Filipino Pico, which combines chopped fresh tomatoes with herbs, fish sauce, and thin slices of serrano chile.

Louisiana Red Beans and Rice

Photo by Greg Dupree / Food Styling by Chelsea Zimmer / Prop Styling by Claire Spollen

"Everyone with roots in southern Louisiana, where red beans and rice is a staple, thinks that their mom makes the best version," says 2019 F&W Best New Chef Kwame Onwuachi. "But I'm the only one who's right. Growing up, my mom used this recipe as a base, sometimes adding in smoked turkey necks or smoked, spiced, and cured tasso ham, in addition to the ham hocks and andouille sausage that impart their smoke, fat, and spice to the Holy Trinity (celery, bell peppers, and onions) and, of course, the sturdy red kidney beans." To read more about how Onwuachi takes inspiration from Louisiana foodways, and for more great Southern recipes like this, see his story, "In Her Footsteps."

Citrus and Fennel Chicken with Olives and Calabrian Chiles

Photo by Victor Protasio / Food Styling by Torie Cox / Prop Styling by Claire Spollen

A mix of citrus, buttery olives, and spicy, oil-packed chiles punches up the flavor of braised chicken leg quarters in this standout recipe. Toasted fennel seeds and dry sherry add a pleasant warmth to the sauce, which begs to be served with a baguette for sopping. 

New Orleans-Style Jambalaya

Photo by Jennifer Causey / Food Styling by Ali Ramee / Prop Styling by Audrey Davis

This hearty Creole jambalaya is smoky, aromatic, and just a little bit spicy. Rendered fat from a combination of andouille sausage, bacon, and smoked sausage serves as the base, and the dish keeps building from there. Take the time to cook each element of the jambalaya to add browned, caramelized flavor. Make sure to save the shells when peeling and deveining the shrimp, as they'll be used for a homemade shrimp stock that goes in towards the end.

A Proper Shrimp Boil

Photo by Christopher Testani / Food Styling by Margaret Monroe Dickey / Prop Styling by Mary Clayton Carl

Food & Wine editor-in-chief Hunter Lewis grew up in North Carolina obsessed with peel-and-eat shrimp, especially those fished out of pots of Frogmore stew in the South Carolina Lowcountry and those cooked and spiced like Maryland crab farther north. Now, he lives in the Deep South, where his shrimp boil has taken on a slight Cajun accent. It still bobs with corn and potatoes, but the Italian sausage is andouille, the Old Bay spice mix is sometimes Zatarain's, and the wild shrimp is always sweet, plump, and scooped from the Gulf. While all of those ingredients are essential, Lewis says the real flavor from a boil comes from a potent cooking liquor, loaded with alliums, lemon, spices, and a bottle each of white wine and clam juice. 

Buttery Shrimp with Peas and Potatoes

Photo by Christopher Testani / Food Styling by Margaret Monroe Dickey / Prop Styling by Kathleen Cook Varner

Unlike their larger, late-season siblings, baby veggies are supremely quick to cook. Creamy new potatoes add substance to this quick one-pan skillet dinner of tender shrimp, fresh shelling peas, and dill, which come together in a sweet and buttery broth laced with cream. 

Spinach Maria

Photo by Jennifer Causey / Food Styling by Ali Ramee / Prop Styling by Christina Daley

Spinach Maria is a classic dish originating from Calhoun's, an east Tennessee BBQ joint. It's made with lots of spinach, Monterey Jack cheese, and crushed red pepper. The cheese sauce is rich with warmth from the cayenne and nutmeg, and the extra layer of melted cheese on top makes it perfectly indulgent. As tasty a side dish as this is, it's also great served as a dip with toasted pita wedges or tortilla chips. You can customize the sauce however you want by adding more garlic, or chopped hot chiles, pickled peppers, herbs, or even crabmeat.  

Chicken Breasts with White Wine Pan Sauce with Crème Fraîche and Spring Herbs

Photo by Greg DuPree / Food Styling by Micah Morton / Prop Styling by Audrey Davis

This simple white wine pan sauce enriched with créme fraîche and a generous handful of tender fresh herbs like tarragon, dill, and chives makes smart use of the pan drippings from pan-roasted chicken breasts. Simply pan-roast airline chicken breasts, set them aside to rest, and then, while the chicken is resting, use the drippings to build the flavor-packed white wine pan sauce, which comes together in about 10 minutes and delivers an elegant, silky texture. The delicate flavors of the white wine pan sauce are also a good pair for thick fillets of trout, salmon, or halibut, which may be substituted for the chicken breasts. To make this pan sauce from other proteins, start from step 2, working with 1 tablespoon of reserved drippings, and proceed as written. 

Soppressata Pizza with Calabrian Chiles and Hot Honey

Photo by Christopher Testani / Food Styling by Torie Cox / Prop Styling by Audrey Davis

Take a little soppressata, some chopped Calabrian chiles, and a drizzle of hot honey, and you'll end up with the pizza of the moment. Calabrian chiles, fiery chiles from Italy, add heat and a distinctly fruity flavor to this pie. The hot honey mirrors the flavors of the chiles, and adds a touch of sweetness. 

Short Rib Chili

Photo by Victor Protasio / Food Styling by Tyna Hoang / Prop Styling by Christina Daley

Fresh jalapeños, smoky chipotles in adobo, and fruity ancho chile powder give this thick, meaty short rib chili layers of heat, while red wine and tomato add acidity to balance out the richness of the tender short ribs. For a more budget-friendly option, substitute cubed beef chuck roast for the short ribs. Homemade pickled red onions provide a colorful, tasty, crunchy topping.

Burnt Ends with Bourbon Sauce

Photo by Victor Protasio / Food Styling by Torie Cox & John Somerall / Prop Styling by Audrey Davis

The crispy, caramelized "burnt" pieces of a smoked brisket are often the best part because the flavor is concentrated and the texture is pleasingly chewy. This recipe creates an entire baking tray of crispy pieces, so there are plenty to go around. Chef Matt Horn likes to serve these with slices of white bread; he shared his step-by-step process for making Burnt Ends with us, from seasoning the brisket to caramelizing the sauce on the cubed meat. If you spend a lot of time barbecuing, you will try out literally hundreds of rubs, not to mention cooking sauces, table sauces, mops, binders, and pastes. Eventually, you will settle on an all-purpose rub that adds loads of flavor to just about anything you put in the smoker. Horn Rub is chef Matt Horn's go-to rub; he keeps it close at hand at all time, and uses it to generously season these savory burnt ends. Instead of vinegar, Horn's thick, sticky Bourbon Sauce gets its kick from its namesake: bourbon. For a classic sauce with Kentucky roots, use dark molasses in place of the honey. This recipe works well with any type of barbecue, and Horn loves it in baked beans, too.

Frozen Salted Espresso Martinis

Photo by Antonis Achilleos / Food Styling by Chelsea Zimmer / Prop Styling by Hannah Greenwood

If you're an espresso martini fan, you'll love this frosty twist. First, brewed espresso is frozen in an ice cube tray; once the cubes are solid, they're processed with coffee liqueur, vodka, and simple syrup in a blender until smooth. The resulting martinis are well-balanced, with notes of caramel and vanilla. The liqueur and syrup give them subtle sweetness, the vodka adds a smooth element, and the espresso brings earthy bitterness. An elegant sprinkle of flaky sea salt finishes the drinks off, and balances the espresso's bitterness. Make sure to chill the glasses before serving and enjoy right away.

Pepperoni Rolls with Garlic-Anchovy Marinara

Photo by Jen Causey / Food Styling by Melissa Gray / Prop Styling by Christina Daley

The pepperoni roll is a West Virginian lunch or snack in which spicy, garlicky pepperoni is stuffed inside a soft yeasted bread roll. When it bakes, the oil from the pepperoni seeps into the bread for delicious results. Adding cheese is optional — we've gone for provolone here, whose salty, mildly sweet flavor balances the pepperoni beautifully (not to mention, it gets nice and melty too). The roll itself also has some sweetness from honey. We're serving the pepperoni rolls appetizer-style with marinara sauce on the side that's been bolstered with caramelized baked garlic and salty anchovies. Add them to the menu for your next party or tailgate.

Sautéed Italian Sausage with Onions and Peppers

Photo by Victor Protasio / Food Styling by Margaret Monroe Dickey / Prop Styling by Claire Spollen

Searing sweet Italian sausage in a dry skillet renders the fat, resulting in a deliciously crispy sausage. Tender bell peppers add a welcome vegetal sweetness to this one-pan dinner while they cook down in a blend of savory chicken broth and tangy vinegar perfect for sopping up with crusty bread. Sausage, peppers, and onions is a great dinner to pair with a red wine, says sommelier Theo Lieberman of Pasquale Jones in New York City, who provided the inspiration for this recipe. To go with the sausage, peppers, and onions, he says, "I've been digging Forlorn Hope's Queen of the Sierra red — I like it chilled. It's easy to drink and lends itself to all kinds of food."

Beer-Battered Fish Tacos

Photo by Antonis Achilleos / Food Styling by Chelsea Zimmer / Prop Styling by Hannah Greenwood

In this taco recipe, IPA adds depth to the crunchy coating on beer-battered cod fillets while the fish inside cooks to flaky and tender perfection. The tacos also feature bright homemade pickled red onions and a cabbage slaw that gets tart creaminess from lime crema and a hint of sweetness from honey. (If you can't find crema Mexicana, use four tablespoons of crème fraîche or sour cream mixed with half a teaspoon of lime juice.) Everything gets piled into charred corn tortillas and garnished with thinly sliced radishes, cilantro sprigs, and a drizzle of reserved lime crema, plus more fresh lime juice if you'd like. To prevent the fish from sticking to the bottom of the pot when frying, hold the fillet halfway into the oil for a few seconds in order to create a skin on the batter, and then slowly lower it fully into the oil.

Classic Cheese Pizza

Photo by Christopher Testani / Food Styling by Torie Cox / Prop Styling by Audrey Davis

Sometimes all you want at the end of the day is a simple cheese pizza. This recipe turns simple into sublime with the addition of an exceptional pizza dough, low-moisture mozzarella cheese, and an easy to make tomato sauce that hits all of the right sweet and savory notes to marry all of the flavors in this pie. A simple garnish of fresh herbs, and you've got perfection on a plate.

Limoncello-Ricotta Cheesecake

Photo by Fred Hardy II / Food Styling by Ruth Blackburn / Prop Styling by Christina Brockman

Limoncello — the sweet, potent Italian lemon liqueur made by steeping lemon peel in grain alcohol or vodka — is the star of this silky, creamy dessert. The filling is lightened by the addition of ricotta cheese, and boasts citrusy flavors from both the fresh lemon juice and limoncello. Mixing the filling with the paddle attachment of a stand mixer creates less air, resulting in a creamier cheesecake with no air bubbles. Make sure you wrap the cheesecake well with foil so there are no leaks. To make the water bath without having to juggle a large pan full of water, place the cheesecake in the roasting pan in the oven, then add the water. The basil garnish balances the lemon nicely, but feel free to swap in berries or mint if you prefer.

Peach Salad with Peanuts and Chile

Photo by Greg DuPree / Food Styling by Margaret Monroe Dickey / Prop Styling by Claire Spollen

Spicy chiles and sweet peaches come together in this simple, summery salad perfect for backyard parties. Lemon vinegar and manuka honey lend each bite a sweet-tart zing and silky texture, amplifying the juiciness of fresh peaches. The sweet honey mellows the sharp and punchy lemon vinegar, adding brightness without overpowering the delicate fruit. Avoid using Meyer lemon vinegar, which will be too sweet once combined with the honey. Long, thin and vibrantly colored, Holland finger chiles, or Dutch chiles, add a moderate jalapeño-like heat to the fragrant dish. Lean on this stunning salad when peaches are at their prime to showcase the best of summer produce. Freestone peaches, such as July Prince, release cleanly from the pit making slicing a breeze, while clingstone peaches, like Flavorich, are typically smaller, juicier and slightly sweeter but can be more challenging to cut. Top a generous serving with grilled chicken or shrimp for a hearty main course. Infused with peaches and chiles, leftover dressing on the platter makes a great addition to spicy margaritas or combined with smashed blackberries for a quick shrub.

Soft-Cooked Eggs with Hollandaise and Ham

Photo by Jennifer Causey / Food Styling by Margaret Monroe Dickey / Prop Styling by Thom Driver

Winemaker André Mack shared the recipe for this elegant breakfast dish of ham thinly sliced with eggs and hollandaise. The salty ham complements golden, jammy egg yolks and a simple hollandaise, showcasing the excellence of each ingredient in this classic dish. Patience is key with hollandaise; adding only a little butter at a time helps the sauce come together without breaking. At & Sons, his ham and wine bar in Brooklyn, Mack uses Mangalista ham in this recipe, but any thinly sliced ham will do nicely. Mangalista ham is smoked over hardwood, giving it a deliciously savory flavor, but also high in fat, so it stays moist and tender even after smoking.

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Wednesday, December 7, 2022

These 7 Best Thepla Recipes Will Amp Up Your Meals While Travelling - NDTV Food

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Raise your hand if you are a thepla fan! These are flavourful flatbreads made with a variety of delicious ingredients. Although it mainly belongs to Gujarati cuisine, anyone can prepare it at home with ingredients easily available in the kitchen. The best part of this food item is that it's versatile and you can actually include ingredients of your choice to savour lip-smacking theplas that carry the taste suitable for your liking. It's a drool-worthy dish every Gujarati swears by. Right from the classic methi ka thepla to customised keto theplas, there's just so much you can explore about this food item. Let's talk about travel journeys now. The food you carry while travelling makes the most interesting part of your journey, right? Well, now if you have any travel plans in mind, do prepare wonderful theplas and carry them along. No need to carry any major accompaniments. Just a bottle of your favourite pickle, maybe chutneys or dahi will be enough for this. We have listed seven mouth-watering thepla recipes that will make your meals delicious and memorable.    

Also read: Give A Healthy Spin To Gujarati Thepla By Adding Lauki To It; Find Easy Recipe Of Lauki Thepla Here

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Here're 7 Best Thepla Recipes You Must Try:

1) Methi Ka Thepla

Let's kickstart the list with a traditional thepla recipe. This is an excellent flatbread made with methi, which is packed with numerous health benefits. And if you think methi is a bit too bitter in taste, add some curd and gram flour to your thepla dough to get rid of the bitter-pungent taste. Make it and relish it with your favourite pickle or chutney. Recipe here.

2) Bajre Ka Thepla

Yes, if you want to pack some yummy theplas while travelling, stick to this healthy recipe. It's one of the most popular travel-friendly foods that can stay for a long time without getting spoiled. Once you mix all the ingredients together, just use yoghurt to knead your dough. For this one, you've got to use bajre ka aata. Click here for the recipe.

3) Mooli Thepla with Aloo Bhaji

Now, this is a combination worth dying for. When mooli thepla is combined with delicious aloo bhaji, a sumptuous potato curry, it tastes yummilicious. If you are planning a family picnic, go for this food item. Mooli thepla is a flavourful flatbread you wouldn't regret including in your travel diaries. Find the recipe here.

4) Lauki Thepla

Want to give your Gujarati theplas a twist? Add some lauki. Also known as bottle gourd thepla or doodhi thepla, this epic treat will leave you craving for more. Lauki is a low-calorie, low-fat food that is great for weight loss. Besides all this, it's packed with proteins, fibre and vitamins that make this thepla a healthy food item to binge on. Try making this at home and enjoy. This is the recipe.  

5) Keto Thepla

Are you someone who is always on a diet? Even if you are health-conscious, here's an option to can rely on. Keto theplas have zero carbs and you can have them without any guilt. Sometimes, when you travel, finding diet-friendly foods may be a challenge. So, here's your answer to an easy and delectable recipe that is all things healthy. Here's the recipe.  

6) Karela Thepla

Yes, this may sound not-so-appealing at first but trust us, karela theplas are a thing. And this is very good for those who are suffering from diabetes. Rich in fibres, antioxidants, vitamins A, C, E, K, calcium and iron, bitter gourd is a go-to dish for diabetics. So, if you are travelling and want to carry something healthy that can be stored, choose this dish and it will not disappoint you. Click this button for the recipe.

7) Masala Thepla

You read it right. Although puri and aloo sabji make for the best food items to carry while travelling, you can make your journeys more interesting by tweaking your meals and carrying something unique, tasty and filling. So, this time, replace your usual rotis or chapatis with these flavourful masala flatbreads. However, for this one, make a dough using flour, jeera, ginger and garlic, along with other homely spices.    

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